How to Properly Prune, Shape & Fertilize a Nandina

Prune nandinas in mid to late winter.

While you can generally prune nandinas any time of the year, winter is the best time to prune. Not only is the plant dormant, but you can use the pruned stems in floral arrangements. The combination of bright green leaves and red berries is quite festive. If you cannot prune the nandina during winter, you can prune it during early spring before the white flowers develop. If you cut those off, you won't get the berries! Use bypass pruning shears on shoots that are thinner than ⁄4 inch (1.9 cm). You will then need to switch to lopping shears for thicker branches. Both tools must be sharp in order to reduce wounding. You can purchase these in a hardware store or in a garden supply shop. Warning:Keep children and pet away from the nandina while pruning, as the leaves and berries are toxic to consume. Their bright colors can make them look appealing to children and pets who are curious or don't know any better. If you decide to bring the cuttings indoors to use in arrangements, be sure to keep them out of reach of children and pets.

Make cuts in a staggered, step-like formation.

Take a moment to look at your nandina and visualize where you want to cut. This will help keep you more organized in the future. The most visually-appealing formation for nandinas is the "stair-step" formation, where you cut the outer stems shorter than the central ones. It will also help with the formation of new shoots.

Prune the oldest or weakest branches first.

Find the tallest, oldest branches on your nandina, and cut it down with your shears. Take a moment to locate any weak branches close to the ground, and cut them back as well. Do not prune more than a third of the stalks' lengths.

Cut the stems in one-third lengths for a fuller look.

Prune the oldest, longest stems to a third of their length. Cut the next couple of stems down to half their length. Trim the rest of the stems to a quarter of their original length. Intermix cuts to give the bushes a fuller look. If you are working on an older plant, prune one-third of the old growth.

Cut just above a branch or leaf node.

This will allow new shoots to grow and prevent the plant from looking too bare. If you prune too far down the stem, the plant will look spindly and unappealing.

Fertilizing after pruning is recommended because it provides a needed dose of nutrients to the plant and helps it get ready for the upcoming growing season. Once you clear away the pruned stems and leaves, try to fertilize that same day, or within a couple of days.

Draw a ring around the plant.

Trace a 12 in (30 cm) ring around the base of the plant. You can trace the ring into the soil with a stick or with your finger. Keep the edges of the ring 6 inches (15 cm) away from the base of the plant. This will serve as a placement guide for the fertilizer.

Sprinkle a 10-30-10 granular fertilizer onto the traced ring.

Don't worry if a few grains end up inside or outside the ring. You do not have to get it directly into the groove formed by the stick or your finger. If you can't get a 10-30-10 granular fertilizer, a rhododendron or evergreen fertilizer will do just fine.

Water the fertilizer to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm).

This means that if you were to dig down 8 inches (20 cm), the soil will be wet. If you do not water the plant deeply, then the fertilizer may damage the roots and kill it. How much water you use depends on how dry your soil is and how fast it absorbs water.