Getting the Right Grip
Hold the straight razor in your dominant hand. It will be easier to grip and use the straight razor using the hand you normally shave with. If you usually shave with your non-dominant hand, use that hand instead.
Place your index, middle, and ring finger on the back of the blade. Position your fingers so they’re at the base of the blade. Your ring finger should be pressed against the pivot where the handle and blade connect.
Set your pinky finger on the tang of the blade. The tang is the thin curved part of the straight razor that’s located next to the pivot (the spot where the handle and blade connect). Rest your pinky finger in the curve of the tang while keeping your other 3 fingers on the back of the blade.
Rest your thumb on the side of the blade. Place it on the side of the blade so it’s near your index finger, which should still be resting on the back of the blade. Your thumb should be on the side of the blade that’s facing the palm of your hand.
Shaving With the Razor
Cover your facial hair with shaving cream or gel. Never shave with a straight razor without some kind of shaving cream or gel. A thick layer of lathered shaving cream or gel will protect your skin from irritation.
Hold the razor blade at a 30-degree angle at the top edge of your facial hair. If you hold the blade perpendicular to your skin, you risk cutting yourself. If the blade is flat against your skin, it won’t work properly. Take a moment to hold the blade at the right angle before you begin shaving.
Pull the area of skin you’re shaving taut with your free hand. Place your fingers next to the area of skin you’re holding the razor against. Then, gently pull the skin upward with your fingers. Each time you move on to a new area on your face or neck, move your free hand to that area and pull the skin taut. Shaving over taut skin will help prevent you from cutting yourself. EXPERT TIP Marlon Rivas Marlon Rivas Facial Hair Specialist Marlon Rivas is a Barber and Owner of MGX Professional Men's Grooming, a barbershop based in the San Francisco Bay Area. He is also the founder of Busystyle.com, a service that provides online scheduling services to businesses in the barbering and beauty industry. Marlon has over 15 years of experience in managing and providing barber services. Marlon Rivas Marlon Rivas Facial Hair Specialist A common mistake when using a straight razor is not holding the skin tight. Tighten the skin in the direction that you're shaving so that you safely get a close shave. You should also make sure you adequately prepare your skin and cut with the grain of the growth pattern.
Move the razor in a short downward stroke. Apply light pressure to the razor blade as you move it across your face. After you’ve made a short stroke with the blade, about 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm), lift it from your face.
Rinse the razor blade off in hot water and repeat in a new spot. Place the blade next to the spot you just shaved and make another short downward stroke. Don’t forget to pull your skin taut and hold the blade at a 30-degree angle.
Continue making short strokes down your face and neck. Rinse the razor blade off after each stroke. When you get to your upper and lower lips, you may need to stretch open your mouth so the skin around your lips is pulled taut. Once you’ve gone over your whole face and neck, look in the mirror to see if you missed any spots. If you did, reapply shaving cream to those areas and go over them again with the straight razor.
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