Doing Traditional Smoky Lips
Get a colored, opaque lipstick and a sheer black lipstick. A smoky lip is a sheer black layered on top of a flat or matte, opaque lipstick. The black layer often has some shimmer as well. Some companies, such as Lipstick Queen, sell kits that include a nude colored lipstick and a sheer, black, shimmery lipstick. You can use such a kit, if you prefer, or you can use lipstick from you own collection. The opaque lipstick can be any color your want. Red and purple are great choices, but you can also use a pinky nude as well. The black lipstick must be sheer, preferably with some shimmer to it.
Apply the base lipstick color. You can apply it straight from the tube or using a lipstick brush. Keep in mind that the black lipstick will darken this color by several shades. You do not need to blot the lipstick, but you can smack your lips to help "spread" it more evenly. Having a little excess lipstick on you lips is actually a good idea, because it will help the sheer layer blend in better.
Apply the black lipstick on top. Once again, the black lipstick must be sheer, or the final color will be too dark. It is best to apply this shade straight from the tube. This way, you will have more control over the layering.
Inspect the color, then add more layers, if desired. Sheer black lipstick will never come out pure black, which is the point of the smokey lip look. A single layer may be too light for you, however. If you want a darker shade, add another layer or two of sheer, black lipstick.
Make any touch ups, if needed. Use a lipstick brush to help blend out the color and layering. Take a close look at the outline of you lips, especially the corners. If something looks uneven, use a lipstick brush to fix it. Once you are happy with the look, you are ready to go.
Doing Ombre Smoky Lips
Apply a base lipstick color. For a classical look, choose a bright, flat red color. This look is different from the traditional smoky lip look in that it is more ombre. It is reminiscent of the smoky eye look. For a twist, try a different color, such as bright purple or pink.
Touch up the corners and edges with a lipstick brush. Use an angled lipstick brush to smooth out your base coat, especially around the outline and corners of your lips. You are not using lip liner for this look, but you still want it to be as sharp and neat as possible. Do not clean off your brush just yet. You will use the residual lipstick on the brush to blend everything together towards the end.
Outline the corners with black eyeliner. You can also use black lip liner instead, if you can find it. Start at the very corner of your lips and go inward towards the center, about ¼ to ⅓ of the way. Don't worry if it looks weird at the moment; you will fix it in the next step. If you're using a lip liner pencil, hold it so you're applying the color with the side of the pencil rather than the tip. This will diffuse the line, making it easier to blend. Focus most of the liner on the corners of your mouth, rather than the center so the lipstick can really pop in the center. If your base lipstick was a lighter color, such as bright purple or pink, use a darker shade of the same color, such as plum (for purple) or maroon (for pink).
Blend the eyeliner in using your lipstick brush. Gently sweep the brush across your lips, starting from the outer corner, and going inwards towards the center. Alternate between using the wider part of the brush on your lip, and the narrow part of the brush on the outline.
Keep blending until you have a smooth gradient. You want your lips to be darker at the corners and brighter towards the center. This will give your lips a smoky, vampy look, perfect for nighttime. If you need to, you can go back in and add a little more liner, blending it again until you're happy with your look.
Add touch of lip gloss to center of you lips, if desired. This look is already very pouty, but if you want to step things up a little add a dab of clear lip gloss to center of your upper and lower lip.
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