This great resplendent warship is headed for Beirut, on another mission to evacuate Indians out of what seems to be a continually worsening situation there. As journalists, the trip is a boon to us too- as the sea route from Cyprus remains the only safe route in and out of Lebanon. The other option, to take the perilous road trip from Damascus, on highways pummeled by Israeli airstrikes.
The crew of the Mumbai is a very happy lot. They were crossing the Suez canal just a couple of days ago, on their way back to India after finishing rigorous naval exercises off the coasts of Turkey and Israel, when word came they had to turn around. And turn around they did- a slightly unusual task set for the men- to go in and pull out hundreds- maybe thousands of Indians waiting to leave Lebanon. Even so, I never once see them complain or cavil at having to put off their own leave, especially when they were so close to home- their wives and children already preparing for their return.
Rushed arrangements are being made for me - an obliging officer's cabin is cleared out, and I am eternally grateful to him for that. One man is posted outside the officer's common bathroom, so that he can alert me when someone is inside. And as I walk up to my room I can see a long line of men in blue looking curiously at this odd chick who is making herself comfortable in this completely male domain.
The food is fabulous too- hot parathas, crisp cutlets, trifle pudding, black forest cake... And after the initial awkward silence in the ward room mess when I sit down- the men in blue quickly get used to my odd presence at meals. We are trained as journalists to eat every meal as if it may be the last for a while- and if I keep this up, I think, they're going to have to roll me down the gangway at Beirut. In my honour, the day's edition of the INS Mumbai Times- a daily newsletter on board, is even printed without the 'mate of the day' photograph- it's a concession I am amused by, but also appreciative of.
I could go on forever about the comforts of the INS Mumbai, its amazing stockpile of weaponry, the impressive fleet it forms along with 2 frigates alongside, a tanker behind, with Chetaks and Sea-King helicopters flying above for cover.
But it's the men on board that impress me the most.
The night before we reach Beirut- I ask what sort of preparations are being made for the estimated 500-700 men and women that will come on board. I am taken to the Ship's big galley, with urns full of biryani and vegetables for hundreds of meals that will take chefs here the entire night to make ready. The head chef tells me they normally cook for less than 500 men aboard the Mumbai. Tonight, they're preparing to more than double that number.
About a hundred of those that will come on board will be women (I am getting off at Beirut, or I might have mourned the loss of exclusivity!), and just like that, the men in blue clear out bunk after bunk for their new passengers- doubling up with shipmates instead.
When we actually reach the Beirut jetty, though, is when I realize just how adjustable and multi-skilled these men are. The Lebanese immigration authorities are dealing with dozens of ships evacuating people of different nationalities at the port, and have few men to spare for people getting on to the Mumbai.
So our own Naval officers fill in- setting up tables and doing the paperwork for them, then conducting baggage and security checks, even conducting a massive baggage tag and claim operation that would make any airline crew worldwide proud. Rear-Admiral Anup Singh, Western Fleet Commander, tells me the innovative operation was something the men on all three ships in the evacuation organized on their own. And he can be justifiably proud.
Because their service isn't limited to Indians- hundreds of eternally grateful Sri Lankans and Nepali women, all employed as domestic staff in Lebanon and unable to pay for the expensive trip home are helped by the INS Mumbai, INS Brahmaputra, INS Betwa, and the tanker INS Shakti (that conducted some impressive mid-sea refuelling. Many of them break down in tears at the kindness they receive on board.
In all, the men aboard the fleet process about 2000 people in three trips- each one a streamlined operation, that then dovetails with Air India's own evacuation flights from Larnaca to Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai. As I make my way down the gangway, I feel like I have gone from being the 'exclusive female onboard', to an honorary crew member.
I turn around and take my honorary sailor's hat off to the 'rest' of the crew.
From The War Zone Blog: A walk in war zoneBlog: Cyprus chronicles Indians in Lebanon take ship home Indian Navy on humanitarian mission Navy's mission: Leave no man behind
Israel razes Hezbollah base
Indians in Lebanon face visa trouble Israel may enforce economic blockade Lebanon's home away from home Tearful home return on last voyage
About the AuthorSuhasini Haidar Suhasini Haidar is Diplomatic Editor, The Hindu. Earlier, she was a senior editor and prime time anchor for India's leading 24-hour English news chann...Read Morefirst published:July 29, 2006, 00:09 ISTlast updated:July 29, 2006, 00:09 IST
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Now this is a real exclusive, I think. No, not the story, but being the only woman for miles around as the INS Mumbai makes its way out of Larnaca harbour. Okay not the only female- since in Naval lingo, the INS Mumbai, accompanying frigates INS Brahmputra and Betwa and the tanker ship INS Shakti are all females. But you get what I mean.
This great resplendent warship is headed for Beirut, on another mission to evacuate Indians out of what seems to be a continually worsening situation there. As journalists, the trip is a boon to us too- as the sea route from Cyprus remains the only safe route in and out of Lebanon. The other option, to take the perilous road trip from Damascus, on highways pummeled by Israeli airstrikes.
The crew of the Mumbai is a very happy lot. They were crossing the Suez canal just a couple of days ago, on their way back to India after finishing rigorous naval exercises off the coasts of Turkey and Israel, when word came they had to turn around. And turn around they did- a slightly unusual task set for the men- to go in and pull out hundreds- maybe thousands of Indians waiting to leave Lebanon. Even so, I never once see them complain or cavil at having to put off their own leave, especially when they were so close to home- their wives and children already preparing for their return.
Rushed arrangements are being made for me - an obliging officer's cabin is cleared out, and I am eternally grateful to him for that. One man is posted outside the officer's common bathroom, so that he can alert me when someone is inside. And as I walk up to my room I can see a long line of men in blue looking curiously at this odd chick who is making herself comfortable in this completely male domain.
The food is fabulous too- hot parathas, crisp cutlets, trifle pudding, black forest cake... And after the initial awkward silence in the ward room mess when I sit down- the men in blue quickly get used to my odd presence at meals. We are trained as journalists to eat every meal as if it may be the last for a while- and if I keep this up, I think, they're going to have to roll me down the gangway at Beirut. In my honour, the day's edition of the INS Mumbai Times- a daily newsletter on board, is even printed without the 'mate of the day' photograph- it's a concession I am amused by, but also appreciative of.
I could go on forever about the comforts of the INS Mumbai, its amazing stockpile of weaponry, the impressive fleet it forms along with 2 frigates alongside, a tanker behind, with Chetaks and Sea-King helicopters flying above for cover.
But it's the men on board that impress me the most.
The night before we reach Beirut- I ask what sort of preparations are being made for the estimated 500-700 men and women that will come on board. I am taken to the Ship's big galley, with urns full of biryani and vegetables for hundreds of meals that will take chefs here the entire night to make ready. The head chef tells me they normally cook for less than 500 men aboard the Mumbai. Tonight, they're preparing to more than double that number.
About a hundred of those that will come on board will be women (I am getting off at Beirut, or I might have mourned the loss of exclusivity!), and just like that, the men in blue clear out bunk after bunk for their new passengers- doubling up with shipmates instead.
When we actually reach the Beirut jetty, though, is when I realize just how adjustable and multi-skilled these men are. The Lebanese immigration authorities are dealing with dozens of ships evacuating people of different nationalities at the port, and have few men to spare for people getting on to the Mumbai.
So our own Naval officers fill in- setting up tables and doing the paperwork for them, then conducting baggage and security checks, even conducting a massive baggage tag and claim operation that would make any airline crew worldwide proud. Rear-Admiral Anup Singh, Western Fleet Commander, tells me the innovative operation was something the men on all three ships in the evacuation organized on their own. And he can be justifiably proud.
Because their service isn't limited to Indians- hundreds of eternally grateful Sri Lankans and Nepali women, all employed as domestic staff in Lebanon and unable to pay for the expensive trip home are helped by the INS Mumbai, INS Brahmaputra, INS Betwa, and the tanker INS Shakti (that conducted some impressive mid-sea refuelling. Many of them break down in tears at the kindness they receive on board.
In all, the men aboard the fleet process about 2000 people in three trips- each one a streamlined operation, that then dovetails with Air India's own evacuation flights from Larnaca to Delhi, Mumbai and Chennai. As I make my way down the gangway, I feel like I have gone from being the 'exclusive female onboard', to an honorary crew member.
I turn around and take my honorary sailor's hat off to the 'rest' of the crew.
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