Choose a location. Your green should be built on a spot that has sandy soil, plenty of sun and good drainage. The location must also allow for breezes to come through in order to keep the grass healthy.
Excavate the area of your golf green to a depth of 20 inches (51 cm). Be sure to remove all the existing sod so you don't have to contend with weeds.
Design the green. It should have a variety of slopes to challenge you, but ultimately slope away from the center. This will prevent puddles from forming after it rains. If you want to have a depression in your green, you must install a drain pipe beneath it to carry away the water. However, this won't work if you build a green in a climate where the puddle will freeze during winter.
Install the drainage system in 8-inch (20 cm) trenches to ensure that water will drain away from the center. Duct tape the connections and wrap the pipes so they won't come apart or you'll have to dig up your green to make repairs later.
Put in an irrigation system if necessary. Keep in mind that adequate, even irrigation is the key to keeping turf healthy. Watering your green with a garden hose is time-consuming and tends to irrigate unevenly. It's easiest to use your municipal water source if you do not live in an area that restricts water usage during droughts. If you choose a different water source (well, rainwater, gray water, etc.), you will have to more carefully monitor the effect of the water on your turf and irrigation system. Some water sources may clog sprinkler nozzles or introduce harmful chemicals. You can water your green with garden sprinklers or drip lines connected to timers, but you will spend a lot of time moving them on and off the green. An underground system with pop-up sprinklers can be fully automated. Install a residential sprinkler system rather than one designed for a golf course. Golf course irrigation systems operate at higher pressures in order to spread the water over a wider area. However, since you only have one green to irrigate, a residential system will work well and is less expensive.
Cover the area with a 4-inch (10 cm) layer of pea gravel. The gravel will hold water near the roots when you irrigate the green, but will allow water to pass through quickly during heavy rain so the grass doesn't drown. Compact the gravel layer.
Add 2 inches (5 cm) of sand on top of the gravel and compact it.
Top the sand with about 14 inches (35 cm) of topsoil that consists of 60 percent sand and no more than 20 percent clay. It's best if you buy the right soil and bring it in, but you can test the soil you've got to see if it meets USGA standards. Compact this layer.
Seed or sod your green. Sodding often results in an uneven green, so seed instead if you have the time and patience to care for the grass until it matures. The variety of grass you will use for your green will largely depend on your climate.
Mark the edges of your green by sodding the perimeter with rougher grass. You may want to add a vapor barrier around your green before sodding to keep the surrounding area from sucking water away or adding water to your green.
Buy your cups, pins and flags from a supplier of golf course equipment. You may also want a cup changer that will allow you to change the position of your cup. You will also need to buy a special mower and mow your new green every day. You might be able to pick up a used one for less than $5000.00.
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